The “Hand Made in Italy’’ exhibition has traveled to New York and Tokyo, and will now be held in Seoul, Jan. 14-17 at the Chosun Ilbo Gallery.
/ Courtesy of Italian Trade Commission |
By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff Reporter
Exceptional artisanship, creative design and superior quality are some of the descriptions used to describe Italian leather goods.
Tuscany, a region in central Italy widely regarded as the birthplace of the Renaissance, is particularly known for its unique vegetable tanning leather technique that has been handed down for generations.
Vegetable-tanned leather is natural, supple, durable and eco-friendly, and when coupled with Italian design and artisanship, makes it a sought-after commodity.
 The Italian Trade Commission and the Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium are introducing the Tuscan leather handicraft tradition to Korea through a special exhibition ``Hand Made in Italy,'' Jan. 14 to 17 at the Chosun Ilbo Gallery, Taepyeongno, Jung-gu, Seoul.
The exhibition's slogan ``Few, but the best in the world'' says it all. Large photographs of luxury handbags, shoes, accessories and furniture show off the beauty of vegetable-tanned leather and Italian design.
These exquisite handcrafted items are made by Italian brands and artisans such as Tod's, Zanotta, B&B, Lucaldo, Buttero, Lamberto Bartolozzi, Folets Arte & Cuoio, The Bridge, Pariani, Nobuko Nishida, Claudio Sano, Sawaya & Moroni and Stefano Bemer.
 Renowned Italian photographer Oliviero Toscani was commissioned to take the series of photographs that emphasize the uniqueness of Tuscan vegetable-tanned leather. There's the one-of-a-kind fish-shaped handbag by Claudio Sano, an impeccable Tod's handbag, well-crafted boots by Folets Arte & Cuoio and an elegant pair of Zanotta chairs.
One of the most well-known Italian photographers around the world, Toscani was the creative force behind successful ad campaigns for Chanel, Valentino, Esprit and Fiorucci.
Toscani is most famous for the attention-grabbing and controversial ads for United Colors of Benetton from 1982 to 2000. For 18 years, he helped United Colors of Benetton become a globally recognized brand by forming its corporate image, identity and communication strategy. He also conceived of the cult magazine Colors and founded Fabrica, an international center for modern communication research.
The ``Hand Made in Italy'' exhibition also includes video performances and mult-imedia displays designed by Toscani and La Sterpaia, Workshop of the Art of Communication.
Vegetable Tanning Tradition
With the stunning Toscani photographs, many will no doubt be lusting after the gorgeous leather handbags, stylish shoes and accessories. But look beyond the design, and marvel at the beauty of the vegetable-tanned leather itself.
On its Web site, the Consortium describes vegetable tanning as ``the most classical, the most traditional, the most recognizable, the only one able to give leather unique characteristics, the most natural, the most environmental-friendly.''
``For all these reasons, vegetable tanning belongs both to the past and to the future of mankind,'' the Consortium said.
 Vegetable tanning, a process that dates back to the Renaissance period, involves the use of tannin. Tannin, an extract found in the bark, leaves or roots of various trees and vegetables, is an active ingredient responsible for transforming the animal hide into a compact and durable material called ``cuoio'' or vegetable-tanned leather.
Unlike other tanning processes that make use of chemicals or toxic substances, vegetable tanning is a safe, environment-friendly method.
Natural tannin extracts from chestnut and quebracho trees make the vegetable-tanned leather stand out from other leather tanned by other methods. The red-colored powder from the quebracho tree bark is a commonly used tannin extract, which gives the leather a warm color and good texture that makes it water resistant.
The Consortium also assures that no animals are killed for its raw hides. The tanneries get the raw hides, which have been discarded by the food industry that produces meat for human consumption.
``Vegetable-tanned leather absorbs the traces of our living, it becomes older without ruining. The natural aging does not compromise its resistance and gives it a vintage look with warm color shades showing evidence of being a natural product. No leather looks like any other; its peculiar characteristics offer a wide range of possible interpretations in shape and design. Designers can find a material able to add value to a project of fashion; consumers can find a product overcoming fashion and trends; and gaining value with the passing of time,'' the Consortium said.
Promoting Vegetable Tanning
For over 15 years, the Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium has been working to promote the old tradition of vegetable tanning all over the world.
It was formed in 1994 by 11 tanneries from the Tuscan region, which use traditional techniques to produce excellent, long-lasting leather.
Now, the Consortium is made up of 26 member tanneries based in Tuscany (in the area between Pisa and Florence dubbed as ``leather district''). It is committed to keeping alive the Italian vegetable tanning tradition, which has been described as a ``a perfect marriage of natural quality, tradition and advanced technology.'' The member tanneries have been using vegetable tanning techniques that have been handed down for generations in the last 200 years.
 The value of vegetable-tanned leather is linked to its Tuscan heritage. The Consortium uses the brand name ``Pelle Conciata al Vegetale in Toscana'' or Vegetable-Tanned Leather of Tuscany, which was conceived by Toscani and La Sterpaia.
``This brand name has been chosen to particularly highlight Tuscany, a region well-known and appreciated all over the world, and the peculiarities of its land. The term `vegetable-tanned' has been maintained because it is evocative of the local handicraft tradition and of the productive process. The imprint of a hand in our logo reminds that our leather is made by hand with the passion of a few master tanners, repositories of ancient traditions,'' the Consortium said.
This quality trademark ensures consumers that the leather came from its member tanneries. The guarantee label also certifies the origin of the product, expresses respect for the environment, attests to the naturalness of the leather and ensures high level of tanning process. To prevent counterfeiting, the tags are printed with a special anti-counterfeiting technique and individually numbered.
Italian Design
The ``Hand Made in Italy'' exhibition also introduces Italian artisans and brands to Korea. Some are widely recognized global brands like Tod's, while others are small, family-run businesses. But all live up to Italy's reputation for high quality, immaculate craftsmanship and ingenious design.
 Tod's, led by Diego Della Valle, is one of the leading luxury leather goods companies in the world. Its Tod's and Hogan shoes and leather goods have distinguished themselves by balancing tradition and modernity, creativity and functionality, and first-rate quality.
Claudio Sano creates leather handbags that have an attractive, sculptural and sometimes surreal style. This is best exemplified by the ``pesce'' or fish handbag.
Stefano Bemer specializes in custom-made men's leather shoes, while Buttero offers handcrafted Western boots.
Lamberto Bartolozzi makes leather horse saddles, using original methods used by his grandfather Giuseppe. Lucaldo, a brand founded in 1957 by Luciano Lucenti, is known for its golf bags and travel accessories.
cathy@koreatimes.co.kr |
|
No comments:
Post a Comment