 A sample of British designer Mark Liu's "zero waste fashion." / Courtesy of Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art | By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter Can fashion be ethical? This is the question posed by the new fashion-meets-art exhibition ``Fashion Ethics: Wear Good'' at Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art in Ansan, Gyeonggi Province. While fashion has always been associated with extravagance and luxury, the exhibition explores a new paradigm shift towards ``ethical fashion.'' Ethical fashion has been gaining ground in Europe. London Fashion Week's "Estethica" section promotes the best in British eco-sustainable, fair trade and ethical styles while alternative fashion fair "White in Milan" has created a new eco-fashion space called SloWhite. As ethical fashion slowly gains momentum in Korea, the exhibition provides a peek into how Korean and foreign designers are adopting the new principles. Most of the styles make use of materials that are recycled, eco-friendly, organic, or obtained through fair trade. But up-and-coming British designer Mark Liu goes a step further, creating designs with the concept of ``zero waste.'' In an interview with The Korea Times, Liu noted how 15 percent of the fabric used to make a garment is wasted from pattern cutting and sewing. For inspiration, he looked towards traditional Eastern designs such as the Japanese kimono and the Indian sari, which make use of the entire fabric in its design. ``I tried to hybridize these Eastern designs with Western ones. I wanted to create something brand-new, a new way of thinking in Western design where you design a piece of clothing to deliberately waste zero fabric,'' he said. Using a single piece of fabric, Liu uses what he describes as a ``jigsaw puzzle pattern,'' wherein all the pieces are put together in the final garment. He showed off several pretty black dresses with petal pattern designs. Even the material he uses is ``reclaimed,'' meaning it has been discarded and given away by textile companies. Liu currently only creates these designs by commission, but he may be doing a ``zero waste'' collection in India soon. ``It is still going to be a high fashion collection. But after that, there's nothing stopping us from making jeans or T-shirts commercially,'' he said. Fair Trade Designs From afar, you might think the chic metallic tote bags are nothing special. But upon closer scrutiny, you will find that they are made of hundreds of pieces of aluminum can tabs. These are part of Paris-based Brazilian designer Ana Paula Freitas' ``fair trade'' collection of trendy handbags, clutches and accessories. Freitas said the bags and accessories are all handmade by workers at a Brazilian women's labor cooperative. Consumers are not just buying the product, but are also helping to improve the lives of the workers. ``I developed a new, more fashionable collection with the cooperative. We work together. A lot of work goes into this because each tab is incorporated one by one. To make a tote bag like this, it takes 3 days and uses 1,000 tabs,'' Freitas said in an interview with The Korea times. Other designers and artists have found ingenious and practical ways of incorporating the principles of ethical fashion. The London-based design team of Orsola de Castro and Fillippo Ricci uses consumer-waste fabrics, swatches and production off-cuts to create high-end women's wear for their brand ``From Somewhere.'' Hong Sung-wan's men's wear collection uses only fair trade cotton fabric from Nepal, Bangladesh and India. Lee Kyumbie designed women's footwear using recycled packaging and banners, such as a fun pair of boots covered in a ramyeon-packaging design. Hong Kong's Movana Chen has been creating clothes by knitting shredded strips of glossy magazine paper since 2004. ``For this exhibition here, I used Korean magazines. The inspiration comes from the media and how the media gives us messages. It tells us what to buy, what to wear. But it also focuses on two-way communication. We don't understand the meaning of the (Korean) text, but you can see the colors, and it's another way of communicating with a different culture,'' Chen said. While ethical fashion is gaining ground mostly in Europe and United States, hopes are high that ethical fashion will spread throughout the world, including Asia. ``In Europe, people are very open to these kinds of things, like recycling and fair trade. In 2000, there was not so much of it but now it is everywhere,'' Freitas said. The ``Fashion Ethics: Wear Good'' exhibition runs through Oct. 4. Visit www.gmoma.org or call (031) 481-7007~9. cathy@koreatimes.co.kr
Artist Fills Canvas with Chairs, Memories |
|  Jae J. Rhee is holding her first solo show at Art & Museum Gallery. / Courtesy of the artist | By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter Chairs hold a special meaning for artist Jae J. Rhee. Tiny chairs made of toothpicks fill the canvas of her artworks, currently on display at her solo show ``Missing You'' at the Art & Museum Gallery, Yeoksam, Gangnam. ``The chair is a symbol of the place I can return to, like home. It's like I can always come back to the chair. It has a special meaning for me. When I was away from my then-boyfriend for six months, and he sent me a picture of the two empty chairs we used to sit in at his garden. It was very touching for me,'' she told The Korea Times over coffee in Chungmuro, Tuesday. In her artwork, the chairs represent the artist's memories of heartbreak and loss. Rhee admitted those painful memories influenced the choice of toothpicks to create the chairs. ``I tried various materials to make the chairs, like chopsticks, but toothpicks are perfect. The toothpick has a sharpened tip. It reflects the pain in my heart. At the gallery opening, one of the staff touched the work, and got hurt from touching the toothpick. There was blood. It's the painful touch that I wanted to express,'' she said.  This is one of the "Missing You" works by Jae J. Rhee displayed at her solo show. / Courtesy of the artist | The Art & Museum Gallery praised Rhee's work as showing her passionate and heartfelt view of life. ``Like present-day Korea, she displays her complex spirit through her art: the modern commercial design values, the new energy of the ascent of women in a global world, and kinship ties to her family, friends and culture,'' the gallery said in a statement. Rhee is an accomplished graphic designer who has worked in the U.S., U.K. and Mexico, but a few years ago she returned to Korea and decided to indulge in her real passion: art. Her art is obviously very personal. She tries to convey stories about her life and love on canvas. She even uses old handwritten letters from family, friends, and lovers as the background for the toothpick chairs. Even the title of the exhibition ``Missing You,'' reflects her feelings and how much she misses her family and friends. ``Everyone asks me, who is you. Everyone has someone they miss like your brother or father. I was away from Korea for a long time, and I missed my family, friends and boyfriend,'' Rhee said. Creating art was a form of catharsis for Rhee. She has been sorting over her past experiences especially the loss of two close loved ones over a 48-hour period. Starting work on an empty white canvas, Rhee revealed, was like going to confession before a priest. ``I was happy to put aside my past sins and create my artwork. For a long time I felt very guilty about their deaths, but during the opening of the exhibition, I could feel my guilt melting away,'' she said. The exhibition runs through Aug. 6 at Art & Museum Gallery, 1st floor Rubina Building, Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam. Call (02) 561-6613. cathy@koreatimes.co.kr | |
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