naegang

Home-style Doenjang Bibimbap at Naegang

Doenjang bibimbap
The Korea Times will resume intermittent reviews of small budget restaurants this month. As economic woes deepen, demand for good food at low prices is expected to pick up. If you need such a place for a quick lunch or dinner, this is the page to turn to. ― ED.

By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff Reporter

Home-cooked food is always the best. Piping hot rice, freshly cooked dishes and hearty soups prepared by a wife, mother or grandmother always seem to have that extra something special that makes food served at most restaurants pale in comparison.

It is always nice to find a restaurant that serves honest-to-goodness Korean food in a warm, homey atmosphere. Naegang, located behind City Hall, downtown Seoul, is one of those restaurants. To say Naegang is small is an understatement because it's so tiny that it is practically a crack in the wall. In fact, claustrophobic diners might cringe at the cramped place, which can fit around a dozen people at a time (including the cooks and the owner).

There is no need to order because there's only one thing on the menu ― ``doenjang bibimbap'' (steamed rice with vegetables and herbs topped with soybean paste).

As soon as we sit down, a steaming bowl of ``doenjang'' and Chinese cabbage leaves, is immediately placed on the table. The soup is hot and refreshing, especially if you've just come in from the cold.

A few minutes later, a bowl of doenjang bibimbap is served. A dollop of homemade doenjang is placed on top of rice and vegetables such as lettuce and leeks. The doenjang has a strong, rich flavor, but it doesn't take away the freshness of the vegetables.

People who don't like the overwhelming spiciness of regular ``bibimbap'' with ``gochujang'' (red pepper paste) will probably prefer the non-spicy doenjang bibimbap.

The rice portion may seem small, but you can always ask for free refills. Except for the main dishes and soup, everything is pretty much self-serve. There are common bowls of side dishes such as kimchi, sweet-spicy pickled chili pepper and garlic, and dried radish strips.

Service is fast, but you also have to eat fast. This is one place where you can't chat much or dawdle while you're eating, especially during lunchtime. The seats fill up quickly, so it's best to come early.

Some might nitpick about the shabby interiors and seemingly unsanitary conditions (There's no separation between the dining area and kitchen, where the food is cooked while dishes are washed, right beside the diners), but there's no denying Naegang serves good food. For what it lacks in style and space, Naegang makes up for in taste. The doenjang bibimbap costs 5,500 won.

The restaurant is located in front of the Kolon building. It is next to the Taepyeong-ro police station. Call (02) 777-9419.

cathy@koreatimes.co.kr