Sunday, November 25, 2007

love van gogh!

Van Gogh Retrospective Rated Best in Asia


“The Sower” (1888) is considered one of the most ambitious works Vincent Van Gogh made while he was living in Arles. The painting, bursting with intense bright colors and energy, is currently on display at the Seoul Museum of Art as part of the on-going Van Gogh retrospective. / Korea Times Photo by Cathy Rose A. Garcia

By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff Reporter

The rare opportunity to see Vincent Van Gogh's masterpieces in Seoul is not one to be missed, especially since the directors of the Van Gogh Museum and Kroller-Muller Museum from the Netherlands are calling ``Van Gogh: Voyage into the Myth'' one of the best Van Gogh exhibitions ever in Asia.

The first Van Gogh retrospective in Seoul officially opened Saturday, with hundreds flocking to the Seoul Museum of Art over the weekend for a glimpse of the Dutch artist's works.

``This is the highest quality exhibition of Van Gogh's works in the last few years. This is probably the best exhibition in 50 years that came to Asia," Dr. Evert J. Van Straaten, director of the Kroller-Muller Museum, told The Korea Times in an interview.

Among the 67 works on display are iconic masterpieces such as ``Irises," ``Country road in Provence by night," ``The Yellow House," ``The Sower," and ``Self-portrait." The 45 oil paintings and 22 drawings are on loan from the Kroller-Muller Museum in Otterlo and Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam.

``I envy the people who are going to look at the many paintings and drawings of Van Gogh for the first time because I think that can be a revelation… I think the exhibition that we selected and proposed is of a very high quality and good choice. This is actually quite a lot from our holdings, and so I think this is one of the best exhibitions ever to go abroad," Van Straaten said. The Kroller-Muller Museum only lends Van Gogh's works for a major exhibition every three or four years.

Axel Ruger, director of the Van Gogh Museum, said the exhibition will allow people to see Van Gogh's development as an artist. In an interview with The Korea Times, he offers a few suggestions on how viewers can best enjoy the exhibition.

``Visitors should look at his works and just appreciate the way they are painted, the very fluid, energetic brushstrokes. When you look at the surface, you can see how beautiful the surface texture is, and the very vibrant, energetic colors. It is the energy and vibrancy of his works that are very exciting. That's what you look for because otherwise, these are everyday subjects, landscapes and portraits. The way it's painted, that's the true excitement," Ruger said.

Born in Zundert, Netherlands in 1853, Van Gogh only decided to become an artist when he was 27 years old. The exhibition traces Van Gogh's 10-year career until his tragic death in 1890.

The exhibition starts with the Dutch period (1881-1885), when Van Gogh started painting. This period is represented by dark, realistic paintings such as ``Man at table" and ``Peasant women digging potatoes"; and lithographs of ``Sorrow," a nude woman crouched down in sadness; and ``The Potato eaters," a group of peasants sharing a meal.

Van Gogh's Paris period (1886-1888) is characterized by his experimentation with color, as seen with the cityscapes and flower still life paintings. Among the representative works are ``Roses and peonies," ``Flowers in a blue vase" and the ``Self-portrait," where he depicted himself in a straw hat and a yellow waistcoat edged in red.

In 1889, he moved to Arles, where he created paintings with intense colors and energy. The works from the Arles period includes ``The Sower," bursting with vivid yellow color; ``The Yellow house (The street)," depicting the home where he stayed in Arles; and ``Portrait of Joseph Roulin," a portrait of a postman.

Van Gogh committed himself to a psychiatric asylum in Saint-Remy in May 1889. During the Saint-Remy period, he created the ``Irises," as well as religious themed works such as ``Pieta" and ``Good Samaritan." ``Country road in Provence by night," created entirely from his imagination, is said to be the last work Van Gogh made in Saint-Remy.

He left the asylum in May 1890, and moved to Auvers-sur-Oise. Among the representative works included in the exhibition are ``Chestnut trees in blossom" and ``Ears of wheat."

Ruger said people continue to be fascinated with Van Gogh and his works because of what they know about his life. ``It is what we know about the artist. His life was relatively short, a tragic but exciting life. I think this is what connects us to the artist on several different levels," Ruger said.

Van Straaten said he was impressed with the Korean organizers who worked hard to bring Van Gogh's works to Seoul. ``We thought that especially since Korea was asking so ambitiously and fervently, we agreed to have an exhibition. We also like very much that from the ancient times, Netherlands had a relationship with Korea. … Van Gogh was Dutch but we consider Van Gogh of the whole world. He is, in a sense, the Dutch gift to the world," Van Straaten said.

The Hankook Ilbo, the sister company of The Korea Times, organized the event with the Seoul Museum of Art and KBS Korea.

The exhibition runs through March 16, and is open Tuesday to Sunday. It is closed every Monday. Tickets are 12,000 won for adults, 10,000 for students (13-18 years old), and 8,000 won for children (7-12 years old).

For more information, visit www.vangoghseoul.com (Korean, English available).

Saturday, November 17, 2007

jdramas rule!

Japanese Dramas Charm Korea


By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff Reporter

Yu Jung-eun started watching Japanese dramas when she was in her second year of high school. Now, the 23-year old university student still can't get enough of Japanese dramas, citing ``Nodame Cantabile'' and ``Team Medical Dragon'' as her favorites.

``I just fall in love with the actors of the Japanese dramas I watch,'' she gushed.

For devoted fans of Korean dramas around Asia, it may come as a surprise that a growing number of young Koreans are turning away from homegrown dramas in favor of Japanese fare.

In recent months, Japanese stars such as Kimura, Joe Odagiri and Hiroshi Tamaki have visited Seoul for promotional events, a sign of the increasing importance of the Korean market for Japanese stars. Around a thousand Korean fans, mostly female, even waited at the airport for Kimura's arrival in Seoul last October, and more showed up to catch a glimpse of him at the Pusan (Busan) International Film Festival



Japanese Wave




























Much like how hallyu swept through Asia in the past few years, a Japanese Wave is slowly making its way through Korea.

After the success of Korean dramas in Japan, its Japanese counterparts are gaining ground in mainstream media in Korea.

Perhaps, it's not unrelated to the fact that Japanese dramas are the last to land in Korea. For decades, Japanese cultural products were banned in Korea due to strong anti-Japanese sentiment stemming from Japan's colonial rule of Korea from 1910 to 1945. Fans who wanted to get hold of J-pop music and movies had to rely on pirated CDs and the Internet.
Since the Korean government eased its ban on Japanese cultural imports, Japanese movies, dramas and music are now more accessible.

Cable channels such as MBC Drama, OnStyle and XTN have aired several Japanese dramas such ``Hero,'' ``Nodame Cantabile,'' ``Boys Over Flowers'' (Hana Yori Dango), ``Attention Please'' and ``Gokusen,'' among others. There is even a cable TV channel, Channel J, dedicated to showing Japanese TV shows.

However, most Korean fans are watching Japanese dramas over the Internet through online streaming sites or by downloading episodes. The episodes have been subtitled in Korean by fans fluent in Japanese, for the benefit of other fans who do not understand the language. Some of the newer dramas are subtitled, within days of their initial airing in Japan.





























Type in the name of a Japanese actor or drama on Korean search engines, and you'll probably get hundreds of entries for cafes, blogs and photos.

``Il-du-jok'' is a term used for the fans of Japanese dramas. ``Il'' is derived from "Ilbon," the Korean word for Japan, ``du'' is for dramas and ``jok'' means community or tribe.

There are many online communities and fan clubs devoted to Japanese dramas, such as www.ilbondrama.net and www.jmdc.co.kr. On Naver, there are more than 150 cafes about Japanese dramas, including one that boasts 67,532 members.

The Ilbon Drama Web site is an informative site with news about Japanese stars, drama reviews, photos and a community where fans can meet other fans and gush over their favorites. There is even a shop where fans can buy clothes and accessories similar to those worn by their favorite stars.

Like many Korean fans, Hwang Yeo-jin, a 20-year old university student, was attracted to Japanese dramas because of their unique storylines and variety of genres.

``Most Korean dramas, except for historical dramas, have very limited storyline. All the dramas look alike. That is why people seek new stories, and Japanese dramas provide that… The good points of Japanese dramas are their interesting plots and unusual twists," she said, but quickly added she still likes watching some Korean shows.

Hwang also started watching Japanese dramas when she was in high school. Since then, she has watched numerous serials such as ``Pride'' and ``The Grand Family'' (Kareinaru Ichizoku), which both starred Kimura.

``Though not all of them, most of Japanese actors do their best and immerse themselves very deeply into their characters, and show the `character' not the actor himself,'' Hwang said.

Yu echoed this sentiment, saying she enjoys the diverse themes and realistic characters in Japanese productions. ``Most Korean dramas are about love or blood ties. However, Japanese dramas are more diverse. There are dramas about how a young person grows into an adult, or a person fighting an illness, or a person's passion for sports. These subjects are related to various feelings we feel. It's more fun and people are easily moved by them,'' Yu said.

However, she complains that Japanese dramas rely too much on manga or book adaptations and lack originality.

``There are many good dramas but some are too light and cartoon-like, lacking in realism. Most dramas are based on comic books or novels. I want to watch more original TV dramas,'' Yu said.

``Nodame Cantabile,'' ``The Story of Yamada Taro,'' and ``Hana Kimi: For You in Full Bloom'' are all based on popular manga. ``Glow of Fireflies (Hotaru no Hikari)'' and ``The Grand Family'' are based on novels, while ``1 Liter of Tears'' is based on a true story of a teenage girl coping with a degenerative disease.

Lee Mi-jin, a 25-year old office worker, admitted she likes watching Japanese dramas because of the ``pretty boys'' who star in them. She named Kimura, Tomohisa Yamashita, Jun Matsumoto, and Shun Oguri as some of her favorite Japanese actors.

``I didn't think I would get addicted to these dramas, but I did. I think some of the actors are cute, but I like the dramas because of their fresh perspective and as they are more fast-paced than the usual Korean melodramas,'' she said.

Despite the historical animosity between Japan and Korea, most fans do not think it is relevant when it comes to entertainment.

``I don't see anything wrong with liking Japanese dramas. I watch it because it is fun and entertaining. I don't want to be narrow-minded and stop watching Japanese shows because of our history with Japan. It has nothing to do with any of it,'' Lee said.



Cultural Exchange


























Cultural exchanges between Japan and Korea are thriving. Japanese producers have already remade Korean dramas and movies such as ``Hotelier'' and ``My Boss My Hero.''
Korean producers are also seeing the value of Japanese dramas, comics and films. The popular MBC medical drama ``White Tower,'' which aired in January, was based on a Japanese novel and drama of the same name. The acclaimed ``Old Boy'' and the hit ``200-Pounds Beauty'' are based on Japanese comic books. More Korean production companies are planning to turn Japanese comics into dramas and movies.

While some have expressed concern about the ``Japanese pop culture invasion,'' Hanyang University professor of Japanese culture Yoon Sang-jin was quoted in Seoul magazine as saying the Japanese Wave is a ``very healthy cultural exchange'' between the two countries.

It does seem premature to sound alarm bells over the growing popularity of Japanese dramas and other forms of pop culture, especially since mainstream reception seems to be lukewarm.

Ratings for Japanese dramas on Korean cable channels are still quite low compared to ratings for Korean and American shows.

Japanese dramas are also facing competition from Taiwanese dramas, which are attracting Korean fans. Taiwanese dramas, "It Started With a Kiss" and "Hanazakarino Kimitachihe," have aired on Korean cable channels. Interestingly, both are based on Japanese manga.

































Even sales of J-pop CDs have not been significant, which is attributed to piracy and the overall downward trend of CD sales. One of the few exceptions is J-pop idol group Arashi whose albums have consistently sold well in Korea. The group's members include Matsumoto and Kazunari Ninomiya, who have appeared in Japanese dramas.

Amid the hype surrounding Kimura's film, ``Hero'' floundered at the Korean box office beaten by the Korean film ``Le Grand Chef.'' ``Hero'' has only managed to attract an audience of 223,979 during the two weeks it has been showing in Seoul.

For now, it seems the popularity of Japanese actors doesn't necessarily translate into high ratings or box office bucks.

Friday, November 9, 2007

that's hot... not ^_^

Paris Hilton 'Loves Everything About Korea'


American celebrity Paris Hilton
By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff Reporter

A barrage of flashing cameras greeted hotel heiress and American celebrity Paris Hilton when she attended her first press conference in Seoul, Friday.

Hilton, who is currently in Seoul for a promotional tour sponsored by sportswear brand Fila Korea, smiled and showed off her trademark pose for photographers and cameramen at the Grand Hyatt Hotel.

With her upswept blonde hair and glowing tan, Hilton wore a gold puffer vest, hot pink track jacket, gray tank top and purple track pants. Everything she wore, except for a pink Chanel purse, was from Fila's collection, which she is endorsing.

The 27-year old fashionista, who is often seen wearing high-end designer brands, declared she loves the Fila brand. ``I love Fila. Girls who wear Fila have great style too. I love to mix the colors. The Fila brand comes in all different colors, so I can mix and match them. My favorite color is pink, so I wore this today,'' she said.

This is her first time in Korea, so she gushed about the beautiful Korean scenery. Hilton also said she loved bibimbap and would like to eat more of it during her trip.

``I love everything about Korea. People are amazing. I look forward to coming here more often. I wish I had more time here. I'd love to see the Korean palaces, architecture and old streets,'' she said.

Hilton, an heiress to the Hilton Hotel fortune, sees Korea as a great market for her brand. ``My fashion line is also coming out, which is clothing, outerwear, shoes, purses and jewelry. Also next is real estate, like hotels and restaurants. I try to be as professional as possible. I'm very excited to be in Korea. This is a great market for me. I'm happy to be here right now,'' she said.

As for her acting roles, Hilton said she appears in the romantic comedy ``The Hottie and the Naughty'' to be released in February. She also just finished shooting ``Repo: The Genetic Opera,'' and is developing another TV show.

When asked how she feels about the paparazzi following her every move, Hilton said she understands the photographers are only doing their job. ``I respect that. I can't complain about it. I love my life and I don't let it bother me,'' she said.

On Thursday, Hilton filmed scenes for her guest appearance on the popular MBC show ``Reckless Challenge'' (Muhandojeon) at the Korea House in Pil-dong. She said she wore a ``gorgeous Korean wedding dress'' (hanbok) for the show.

Hilton's one-year contract with Fila Korea is reportedly worth $1 million. Fila chose Hilton as its model last March because of her sexy, fashionable image. However, her ads were temporarily pulled last June, when she was sentenced to a 45-day jail term on a drunk driving charge.

Fila was originally established as an Italian company in 1911, but is now owned by Fila Korea.

cathy@koreatimes.co.kr

Tuesday, November 6, 2007

van gogh in seoul!

Van Gogh Show to Open in Seoul


Vincent Van Gogh’s “The Yellow House” (1888) is part of the exhibition “Van Gogh: Voyage into the Myth” that runs from Nov. 24 to March 16 at the Seoul Museum of Art.

By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff reporter

The first retrospective of Vincent Van Gogh's works (1853-1890) in Korea will open on Nov. 24, gathering the Dutch artist's masterpieces from the Van Gogh Museum and Kroller-Muller Museum in the Netherlands.

``Van Gogh: Voyage into the Myth'' will feature 67 works by Van Gogh, including 45 paintings and 22 drawings, at the Seoul Museum of Art. This is the biggest Van Gogh exhibition since the exhibition marking the 100th anniversary of the artist's death at the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam in 1990.

The Hankook Ilbo, the sister company of The Korea Times, is organizing the event with the Seoul Museum of Art and KBS Korea.

Seo Soun-jou, the Van Gogh exhibit commissioner and Hankook Ilbo cultural project center director of exhibitions, said this is a comprehensive exhibition that covers the master painter's brief but fruitful 10-year career.

The exhibition features representative works from Van Gogh's early Netherlands period (1880-1885), Paris period (1886-1888), Arles period (1889), Saint-Remy period (1889-1890) and Auvers-sur-Oise period (1890).

Seo said it is amazing that Korea managed to host the Van Gogh retrospective, since it is the most sought-after exhibition in the world. He noted the Van Gogh Museum is not planning on holding another exhibition like this one for the next 10 years.

Born in Zundert, the Netherlands in 1853, Van Gogh devoted his life to art, and lived in poverty until he died at the age of 37. He was categorized as a ``post-impressionist'' artist and created around 900 works during his lifetime. However, these were not recognized until after his death.

While influenced by Impressionism, Van Gogh rejected the realistic painting styles, saying he wanted to ``paint unrealistic paintings to look more realistic than paintings that depict real things.''

Among the masterpieces on display at the exhibit are ``The Potato Eaters'' (1885), ``Self-portrait'' (1887), ``Irises'' (1890) and ``Church in Auvers'' (1890). This will be the first time Van Gogh's ``Irises'' will be showcased outside the Van Gogh Museum.

Other significant works include ``The Sower,'' ``The Yellow House'' and ``Portrait of Joseph Roulin,'' which show the real essence of Van Gogh's art.

Seo noted the Van Gogh exhibition is probably the most expensive one to be held in Korea. The total insurance value of the exhibition is 14 trillion won, with the value of ``Irises'' and ``Self-Portrait'' at a hundred billion won each.

Seo hopes this event will be a stepping stone for future Van Gogh masterpieces to be exhibited in Seoul, such as the famous ``Sunflower'' and ``Cafe Terrace.''

The exhibition runs until March 16. It will be open Tuesdays to Fridays from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., and weekends, holidays from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. It is closed on Mondays.

Tickets are 12,000 won for adults, 10,000 for students (13-18 years old), and 8,000 won for children (7-12 years old). Children below 7 years old and senior citizens (65 years old and over) will be allowed to go in for free. Group discounts are available.

For more information, www.vangoghseoul.com.

cathy@koreatimes.co.kr

yangpa

Yangpa Aims for US


K-pop singer Yangpa will hold a solo concert on Nov. 24 and 25.
By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff Reporter

Singer Yangpa is the latest K-pop star to try and make her Hollywood dream come true.
Yangpa, who made a successful comeback in the K-pop scene last May after a six-year break, is now laying the groundwork for her debut in the United States.

James Sun, a runner-up during season six of the hit American reality show ``The Apprentice,'' had recently approached Yangpa to discuss the possibility of making her American debut.

In an interview with The Korea Times, Yangpa said she is excited about the possibility of entering the American music market, although plans are still in the initial stages. ``There's nothing specific yet, but I have sent my albums and videos to the U.S. I hope it will go well. … Right now, I'm concentrating on English,'' she said.

Sun, CEO and founder of business networking site zoodango.com, reportedly has influential contacts in the American music industry that could help Yangpa's career.

Yangpa, known for her lovely voice and emotional ballads, admitted she might have to change her style to suit the current trends in the American music scene. ``My popularity in Korea won't help me in the U.S., so I need to start over. I would have to take a totally different concept and image there. … I won't sing the same songs that I sang in Korea. I will have to take the concept and music that is popular in the U.S. and do that,'' she said.

Yangpa admitted it would take a lot of hard work to become successful in the American music market, which is the biggest in the world.

Inevitably, Yangpa faces comparisons with other Korean singers who are also currently trying to make inroads in the American music industry such as Lim Jeong-hee and Rain. She doesn't feel much pressure being compared with them, saying that all have different styles and personalities.

Yangpa has already had some experience in the U.S., when she underwent training for a year to prepare for her fourth album in 2000. ``The American music industry seems to like the exotic image for Asian women. They wanted me to be sexy and exotic. Maybe I can take on that kind of image, if that's what they want from me. When I was training in the U.S., I was practicing R&B and soul music. I think I can have that charm that only Asians have,'' she said.

Yangpa, whose real name is Lee Eun-jin, made her debut in 1997, as a sweet, full-cheeked high school student singing the wildly popular song ``Young Love.'' She studied at the prestigious Berklee College of Music in Boston, and released four hit albums until 2001. She took a six-year hiatus because of a conflict with her previous management agency.
Last May, she returned to the music scene with her fifth album ``Windows of My Soul.''
Despite apprehensions that the long break may have affected her popularity, Yangpa's first single ``Love… What is it?'' topped the charts, proving fans are still loyal to her. She also wrote new songs such as ``Marry Me'' and ``You are Nice.''

The 28-year old Yangpa still looks youthful as ever, despite her protestations that she's ``old'' compared to the perky teenage singers dominating the K-pop scene. ``There are so many young singers now, but I also debuted at a young age. I'm lucky to still be singing after ten years. I think of them as my colleagues, and I don't feel like I'm better than them. I even feel like I'm newer than other artists now,'' she said, with a smile.

Yangpa is currently preparing for her first solo concert since 1998, ``Show, Show, Show'' on Nov. 24-25 at the Ewha Womans University hall. She will be singing 20 songs, both old and new hits, during the concert. Second Moon and Dynamic Duo will also appear as special guests during the concert. Tickets for the concert are 77,000 won, 66,000 won and 55,000 won. For information, visit ticket.auction.co.kr (Korean only).

After her concert, Yangpa will start preparing for her sixth album, which could be out by early next year.

When asked where she sees herself 10 years from now, Yangpa said she still hopes to continue singing, write many songs and even a book.

cathy@koreatimes.co.kr

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

ciara in seoul

R&B Diva Ciara to Perform in Seoul


American R&B singer Ciara poses for Korean photographers during a press conference at the Woo Bar, W Hotel in eastern Seoul, Thursday afternoon. She held her first concert at the Fencing Arena, Olympic Park, Seoul, Friday. / Yonhap
By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff Reporter

American R&B star Ciara may often be compared with other successful singers like Beyonce and Rihanna, but she wants to be known for her own unique musical style.

``Beyonce, Rihanna and I are all different from each other. I have a lot of respect for what they do. All I know is that I'm me. If you see me, you can see the difference,'' she said, in a press conference at the W Hotel in eastern Seoul, Thursday.

Ciara is currently in Seoul to perform in her first concert at the Olympic Fencing Stadium, Olympic Park, Friday evening.

The pretty 21-year-old singer described her second album ``Ciara: The Evolution,'' as a personal reflection of the changes in her life. The album has sold over two million copies since it was released last December.

``This album covers my life's changes through the years. I have evolved as an artist and a woman in many ways,'' Ciara said. ``This is definitely different than my old record. I just did what felt good to me. This album is all about having fun. I want people to dance and have a good time when they listen to it.''

Ciara burst into the music scene in 2004, with the hit dance song ``Goodies,'' which topped the Billboard charts in the United States. This was followed up by another hit song ``1, 2 Step,'' a collaboration with Missy Elliot; and ``Oh'' featuring Ludacris. Her debut album ``Goodies'' sold over three million around the world. She was nominated for two Grammy Awards.

Her latest album has already spawned several hit songs ``Promise,'' ``Get Up,'' and ``Like a Boy.''

Ciara admitted she is inspired by the music of Michael Jackson, Janet Jackson, Prince and Madonna. But when she's preparing for a concert, she loves to listen to Sade.

At the press conference, Ciara was wearing a white top, a black leather cropped jacket and jeans tucked in funky platform boots.

When asked about her fashion style, Ciara said she has a very ``spontaneous'' style and tries to be creative with whatever she's wearing.

As a successful singer in the U.S., Ciara was asked to give some advice for Korean artists like Se7en and Rain, who are trying to enter the American music industry.

``The most important thing about the American market is to have a great melody, and to 'just be you.' Americans love great music productions. It would also be cool to have collaborations with American artists,'' she said.

Ciara said she really likes Korean barbecue, and would like to sample different Korean dishes. She also wants to visit Dongdaemun Market to check out Korean fashion.
``People here are really sweet. It's a blessing to be able to travel around the world to perform. I'm enjoying it very much. I hope to be back at least once a month because Korea is such a beautiful place,'' she said.

off to the mountains

Rediscovering Korea's 'Spine'


A view of the steep drop as the hikers descend from Seo-bong in Deogyu-san national park, located between North Jeolla and North Gyeongsang provinces. / Photo courtesy of Andrew Douch and Roger Shepherd
By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff Reporter

New Zealander Roger Shepherd had already walked 350 kilometers of the Baekdu-daegan mountain ridge in June last year, before he realized he should be documenting his trek through the ``spine" of the Korean peninsula.

The Baekdu-daegan is the mountain range that runs through the Korean Peninsula (both North and South Korea), passing through every province except for Gyeonggi, South Chungcheong and Jeju Island.

Shepherd was so entranced by the range's beauty and the friendliness of the Korean people he had met during his trek, that he felt more foreigners should know about this hiking trail.
Thus, the idea to traverse the 670-kilometer Baekdu-daegan mountain ridge in South Korea was born.

Baekdu-daegan means ``white-head great-ridge.'' It starts at Mount Baekdusan in North Korea, and ends at Mount Jirisan in South Korea, running nearly 1,625 kilometers from end to end. But the two Kiwis are doing the South first.

Shepherd, a policeman from Wellington, vowed to return to Korea to walk the entire Baekdu-daegan trail, and to write an English hiking guide so that other foreigners can explore the area.

He met fellow New Zealander, Andrew Douch, who has been living in Korea for seven years and also interested in hiking through the Baekdu-daegan.

As they did their research, Shepherd stumbled on a Web site dedicated to Korea's native mountain spirit, which was run by Kyung Hee University professor for tourism David Mason. They couldn't have found a better person to ask for help, since Mason has spent the last 25 years doing research on Korea's sacred mountains, one of which is Baekdu-daegan.


On his Web site (www.san-shin.net), Mason described the Baekdu-daegan as the ``theoretical 670 km-long geomantic earth-energy main stream.''

The Baekdu-daegan ridge holds most of the highest peaks of Korea. More importantly, it has spiritual significance, since it is believed to be the life-energy source of Korea. It is ``important in traditional Korean thought, a key aspect of 'pungsujiri' (geomancy) philosophy and practices.'' Baekdu-daegan has roughly half of Korea's most sacred mountains, and the source of all of Korea's major rivers is found here.


``The Baekdu-daegan is believed by traditionalists of all sorts (Buddhists, Confucianists, Shamanists, Nationalists, Taoists and even many Christians) to continuously feed essential life-energy throughout the land of Korea, and thus into all its agricultural products and spring-waters, and thus into its people. Its unimpeded clear flow is considered necessary for the birth and raising of heroic and virtuous citizens, and thus for the health, strength and prosperity of the Korean nation,'' Mason said.

Journey Begins

The 2007 Baekdu-daegan Expedition Team is on a once-in-a-lifetime journey to go where no other foreigners (at least to their knowledge) have gone before _ to trek the entire South Korean portion of the Baekdu-daegan. Both Douch and Shepherd have taken time off work to do the hike, while Mason helps them by researching the historical and cultural background of the area.

The team started its trek from Jungsan-ri, Jirisan National Park on Sept. 1, and traveled northward with the ``sun behind their back'' as Shepherd put it.

When Douch and Shepherd met with reporters at the Buseoksa Temple over the weekend, they had already covered a significant portion. The trek was originally supposed to take 70 days, but they have progressed much more quickly. They are now expected to complete the expedition on Nov. 7 at Jinbu-ryeong in Seoraksan National Park.

``Walking has become our job. There's not much of that psychological barrier that we had at first. We were struggling with our fitness, we were like `Oh my God, there's four more kilometers left?' Now, we're like, `Oh, 4 kilometers more. Great!','' Shepherd said, as he and Douch met reporters at the Buseoksa Temple, near Punggi town in North Chungcheong Province.

Douch said they had originally estimated walking an average of 10 kilometers a day to be able to finish the trek in 70 days, but they would sometimes walk as much as 25 kilometers a day.

At the start, they brought heavy packs that contained three day's worth of food and supplies. But they soon decided to just look for minbaks (rural home-stay) after every day's hike, since there are many villages and towns near the Baekdu-daegan trail. It has turned out to be an interesting way to experience rural life in Korea's countryside.

``I'm now a big fan of rural Korea. There is a laid-back atmosphere in the small towns. People are friendly and curious. They always wear genuine smiles and feed us fruits. We are very grateful for that,'' Douch said.

Like most hikers, they also leave their ribbons on the trail. Hiking through the Baekdu-daegan is gaining popularity among Koreans, who leave their ribbons to indicate their success in conquering the trail.

Shepherd and Douch have not experienced any major problems during the trip, save for losing weight, a bad bout of gastroenteritis and some friendly arguments over Scrabble games at night.

Douch recalled how an old man asked to check their backpacks because he thought they were stealing the expensive pine mushrooms that grow in the mountains. Another time, they were walking down the hill and found themselves in the middle of a Korean couple's outdoor party.

When asked if they have experienced the spiritual power the ridge holds, Shepherd said he certainly feels a lot stronger than when they started the trek.

``You can't ignore that idea. It is certainly in the back of our minds. The energy from the Baekdu-daegan is mostly positive and the water from the streams is the provider of life. A lot of people admire and worship the mountains. So somehow it becomes ingrained in you,'' he said.

Spectacular Scenery

The 30-year-old Douch and 41-year-old Shepherd can't help but gush about the spectacular autumn scenery in Korea's mountains. While New Zealand has its own breathtaking natural scenery, they admit Korea has its own unique charm.

``I think the Korean scenery is probably on a par with any other part of the world. Some people would say New Zealand is such a beautiful country, but every country would have something that is truly remarkable about their landscape. ... We get to the top of these ridges, and we look out on a clear day and we will see lines of mountains all in contrasting lights. It's amazing,'' Shepherd said.

Attempting to walk over 600 kilometers in the mountains might seem intimidating, but the two hikers said anyone with reasonable fitness could complete the Baekdu-daegan trail.
Shepherd noted Korean mountains are very accessible for hikers, although basic knowledge of Korean is needed to read the signs. He suggests people do the trek during early autumn (September to October) or spring (April to May) to be able to experience cool, moderate weather and see the beautiful scenery.

The Baekdu-daegan is currently the focus of the Korean government's efforts for preservation. In 2003, the government implemented a law mandating the preservation of ``the backbone of the Korean peninsula and the treasure house of its ecosystem.'' Last year, the area was designated a national nature preservation park.

While these efforts are lauded, Douch and Shepherd suggest there could be more to help foreign hikers, such as English signs and more facilities for hikers.

As they are on the brink of successfully walking the South Korean trail of the Baekdu-daegan, Douch and Shepherd still dream of trekking the North Korean portion.

The Baekdu-daegan expedition team is planning on coming up with an English guidebook to help future hikers. There are also plans for a coffee table book featuring the photos of the trail taken by Douch and Shepherd, along with cultural information written by Mason.

With this project, they hope that one day, the Baekdu-daegan can become an internationally known long distance trail like the Appalachian Trail, Sierra Crest Trail, Inca Trail and the Great Wall of China.

You can track the progress of the 2007 Baekdu-daegan Expedition Team on their blog www.baekdudaegan.blogspot.com.