fashion stuff (as of March 2010)

Fast Fashion vs Dongdaemun

By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter Forget about designer and luxury brands. For savvy shoppers, ``cheap and chic'' is the name of the fashion game. Dongdaemun Market has traditionally been the fashion mecca in Seoul. With its 27 shopping malls and 30,000 stalls offering a wide assortment of clothing, shoes and accessories from Korean manufacturers, it's one place where there is something for everyone. In recent years, there has been an influx of international ``fast fashion'' brands, challenging local manufacturers and retailers. In Myeongdong, global retail chains Zara, Mango, Hennes & Mauritz (H&M), Uniqlo and Forever 21 have opened shops. Since both Dongdaemun and fast fashion brands boast of providing fashionable clothing and accessories at inexpensive prices, The Korea Times hit the fast fashion shops in Myeongdong and the stalls in Dongdaemun to find out if it's true. Global Fast Fashion in Myeongdong The streets of popular shopping district Myeongdong are now dominated by international fast fashion retailers like Zara, Uniqlo, Forever 21, Mango, Gap and now H&M. Homegrown label SPAO recently jumped into the competition for the fickle wallets of Korean shoppers. For everyday basics, Japanese fashion retailer Uniqlo is the undisputed leader, in terms of variety, quality and price. While many of its sweaters, cotton shirts and dresses range from 19,000 to 39,000 won, Uniqlo upped its style quotient by collaborating with iconic German designer Jil Sander on the +J Collection, which features coats, shirts and jackets but at a higher price point. It also recently introduced UJ, a line of jeans that focus on fit, fabric and finish, ranging from 29,000 to 79,000 won. SPAO is a brand launched by Korean retail conglomerate E-Land to challenge Uniqlo at its game. Located next door to its Japanese counterpart, SPAO offers casual clothing, as seen with the stacks of candy-colored hoodies, graphic T-shirts and skinny jeans. Jackets (39,000 won) and shirts (9,900 won), with designs worn by popular Korean groups Girls' Generation and SuperJunior, are proving to be best-sellers among fans and tourists. Forever 21, a U.S. company owned by a Korean-American businessman, is very popular among the younger crowd for its trendy offerings. The flagship store, located at M Plaza, carries a wide selection of clothing and accessories. With fresh stocks coming in every day, shoppers will almost always find something new to buy. On the upside, prices at Forever 21 are reasonable, although it seems slightly higher than retail prices in the U.S. For instance, a lime green belted knit dress is sold for 39,000 won in Seoul, compared to $29 (around 33,000 won) on the U.S. Web site. However, the styles are somewhat too trendy, which would likely last only one season before being thrown away. Spanish brand Zara offers stylish, sophisticated and well-made garments for young working women. Zara has a distinct feminine style that is tasteful and modern, which is perhaps why shoppers find the prices reasonable for its quality. Light knit dresses start at 69,000 won, while classic trench coats are 149,000 won and office blazers 119,000 won. Swedish fashion giant H&M only opened its flagship store at Noon Square last weekend, but it has already attracted thousands of shoppers. All four floors were packed, as people scrambled over flirty frocks, bleached denim jackets, distressed jeans and spring coats. Unsurprisingly, the rainbow-striped sweaters and knit dresses by French designer Sonia Rykiel for H&M quickly flew off the shelves. However, the most disappointing thing about H&M was the pricing. Items appeared to be more than twice or even three times the prices in the U.S. and other countries. For instance, a denim jacket was priced at 59,000 won (around $50), but a check at H&M.com's U.S. Web site revealed the exact same jacket was only $14.99 (excluding tax) or around 18,000 won. In Hong Kong, the same jacket was advertised on its Web site for only HK$149 or US$19.99. It seems while these stores offer up-to-the-minute trends and designer-inspired clothing, it's not as ``cheap'' in Korea as in other countries. Dongdaemun Style Dongdaemun, one of Seoul's oldest shopping districts, is defined by the towering shopping malls that offer a homegrown version of ``fast fashion.'' The market opened in 1905, but was transformed into a modern fashion town with the introduction of shopping malls in the 1990s. The 24-hour wholesale and retail shopping area quickly became known as a one-stop shop for fashion and accessories. According to the Dongdaemun Special Fashion Town Council, daily gross sales in the market are around 50 billion won and it accommodates a daily floating population of one million. It is impossible to check out all the stalls in the 27 malls in the area, so most young people flock to the multi-level shopping malls. Doota, Hello apM, Migliore, GoodMorningCity and Cerestar, located along the main road, offer floors of clothing, shoes, bags, accessories and jewelry targeted at young men and women. It usually opens at 10:30 a.m. and closes at 5 a.m. the next day. Doota, perhaps the most popular mall, looks and feels like a department store with its sleek and tasteful interior. While its stalls have the usual mass-produced items, there are also innovative designs from up-and-coming brands such as Small Friends, J Moon by Moon Jinyoung and Contemporary Space. Unlike most of the market where haggling is almost a requirement, Doota requires all its sellers to have fixed price tags. It prevents sellers from arbitrarily hiking the prices for customers, especially tourists. There are some pricey items at Doota stalls, such as a leather jacket for 429,000 won and yellow snakeskin pumps for 178,000 won, but also some relatively cheap ones like vintage T-shirts for 15,000 won and lacy tops for 20,000 won. Flower print dresses, which are expected to be another trend this spring, range from 40,000 to 60,000 won, almost similarly priced to ones found in Zara or H&M. Migliore and Hello apM cater to a mostly youthful crowd, hence the stalls usually sell casual clothing such as bright colored hoodies, cartoon character-logoed T-shirts, ripped jeans and mini-skirts. There are a handful of stalls selling men's and women's suits, with small signs that indicate these are copies of Prada or Chanel, at a small fraction of the price of the originals. The prices are cheap, like 5,000 to 10,000 won for T-shirts and 20,000 won for skirts, but there are usually no price tags. On the other side of Dongdaemun market, the wholesale clothing markets, such as Pyounghwa Clothing Market, Jeilpyeonghwa Market, Designer Club, Area 6, Nuzzon and U:US, open around 8 p.m. or 9 p.m. A slightly older crowd usually ventures out to these markets, where prices can be cheaper but only if one has the patience to look, compare and haggle. Designer Club offers a good selection of women's clothing, with black jackets at 20,000 won and printed A-line skirts for 20,000 won. At Nuzzon, acid washed skinny jeans were on sale for 17,000 won and pastel-colored spring coats were 25,000 won, while Jeilpyeonghwa Market had some men's suits for around 40,000 to 50,000 won. Dongdaemun has a uniquely Korean charm, with its maze of stalls, bustling atmosphere and overwhelming crowds. Prices are a tad lower than global fast fashion brands, but not as cheap as people might expect. Another concern is the lack of sizes, since T-shirts are usually available in one size, while dresses, jeans and pants are available in limited sizes. If you want to get a feel for the excitement of Dongdaemun, go there on a Friday or Saturday night, with a pair of comfortable walking shoes, lots of patience and energy. Also bring cash since additional discounts are usually given for cash payments. Be ready to haggle. Many of the wholesale malls are closed on Sunday, while retail malls are closed on Monday. cathy@koreatimes.co.kr

Andre Kim Offers Luxurious Fur Collection

By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter Top Korean designer Andre Kim has just launched a luxurious line of coats through his new ``Fur Art Collection.'' Kim, considered a pioneer in Korean fashion, offers his first ever collection of beautifully made coats in the most sumptuous mink, chinchilla and lynx furs. Designed to keep people fashionably warm during the cold winter weather, these plush fur coats exude the signature Andre Kim romantic and elegant sensibility. There are lustrous mink coats in ivory, black and brown shades that will be the object of desire for many women. The eye-catching collection also includes a gorgeous brown sable coat, a soft-looking chinchilla coat in graduated black and a cream-colored lynx jacket dappled with light brown spots. The Andre Kim Fur Art Collection has been touted as a high-end luxury brand. It is poised to become a success, in light of fur's renewed popularity this season. Fur has once again become a hot fashion trend, perhaps helped by the unusually cold temperatures that have gripped the country. As temperatures continue to drop below zero, the Andre Kim fur coats will no doubt provide people with more fashionable, if not opulent, alternatives to the usual wool coats or down-filled jackets. These fur coats promise to add a touch of sophistication to anyone's winter wardrobe. It is the perfect outer wear not just for people wearing Andre Kim's lovely evening gowns, but anyone who is looking for a timeless, classic and yet warm coat. Kim is renowned for his ``Fashion Art Collections,'' characterized by richly colored and intricately detailed evening gowns and dresses. He has always taken inspiration from Korean, Oriental and European culture. Kim has become the unofficial Korean fashion ambassador through his numerous fashion shows staged abroad. Aside from fashion, the Andre Kim brand is known for a wide range of products, including jewelry, golf wear, eye wear, children's clothing, bedding, home lighting, Hankook Chinaware porcelain dishware, Samsung household appliances, wallpaper, a Kookmin Bank credit card and interior design for apartments. cathy@koreatimes.co.kr

Louis Quatorze Launches Paris Collection

Louis Quatorze introduces a new line of handbags and accessories in Seoul, designed by creative director Pierre-Louis Mascia and made in France, which were inspired by modern art and classic prints. / Courtesy of Louis Quatorze By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter Louis Quatorze introduced its Paris Collection of French chic-inspired handbags and accessories in Seoul last week. The collection, designed by creative director Pierre-Louis Mascia and made in France, was inspired by modern art and classic prints with French sophistication. ``It's all about bringing the French touch to the brand,'' said Patricia Lerat, development director for the company. Now available at the newly reopened Louis Quatorze flagship shop in Cheongdam-dong, southern Seoul, the Paris Collection offers three distinct lines. The Madame de Maintenon range features classic and formal designs. There are orange and chocolate brown handbags in classic shapes made of luxurious leather. ``It's discreet and chic, no bling,'' Lerat said. The Madame de Lavalliere collection includes evening accessories, such as clutches with tassels and small purses. On the other hand, the Madame de Montespan line has a more ``frivolous and provocative'' style. A mix of vintage prints, patterns, dots and stripes are used on tote bags and weekend bags that are fun and casual but still fashionable. Y.S. Kwon, executive vice-president of Louis Quatorze, said the company is confident of the brand's prospects for the coming year. He emphasized its commitment to ``classical elegance, modern chic and East-meets-West'' aesthetics. Louis Quatorze was founded in 1980 by Paul Barrate, who came from a line of artisans, in Versailles, France. It was named after the iconic French King Louis XIV (1638-1715), who was renowned for his luxurious and decadent lifestyle during his reign. It became especially popular in Asia during the 1980s for its high quality leather goods. In 1990, Korean company Taejin International bought the brand. Under the helm of its president Jeon Yong-joon, Louis Quatorze was reborn as a luxury label, relying on its French heritage. The year 2010 is a significant year for Louis Quatorze since it is celebrating its 30th anniversary. While it has already made significant inroads in the Korean market, Louis Quatorze is trying to also establish a presence in its ``birthplace,'' France. It opened its design office in Paris in 2008. But as a French-born brand, it was only fitting for it to have a flagship store in the Marais district of Paris. The store, which opened in October, sells handbags from its Paris Collection, as well as its line of trunks and other accessories and leather goods. Lerat said many Asian tourists have been shopping at the Marais shop, attracted by the ``very French style'' of their bags. `` It's good that Louis Quatorze is working in a distinct French style now. Consumers are looking for that. ... We are going back to the label's DNA, France," Lerat said. "We want to make something new for the future, a return to simplicity.'' cathy@koreatimes.co.kr

Fashion Week Starts in Seoul

A model shows off a creation by designer Han Song for his brand Troa during the spring/summer Seoul Fashion Week in October. / Courtesy of Seoul Fashion Week By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter Fashionistas, put on your high heels and most stylish outfits, and make a beeline for Seoul Fashion Week. Top Korean designers will be unveiling their 2010 Fall and Winter Collection at the Seoul Trade Exhibition Center (SETEC), Daechi-dong, southern Seoul, from Friday through April 1. It's been 10 years since Seoul Fashion Week began, under the auspices of the Seoul Metropolitan Government which identified fashion as one of the industries to receive strong government support. What started as a small local fashion festival in Seoul has now grown into an event with an eye firmly on the international market. ``Seoul Fashion Week has reached its 10th anniversary. The Seoul Fashion Week represents Korea's fashion market and Seoul Metropolitan Government will support Korea's designers to advance into the global market,'' said Choi Hang-do, director of the global economic headquarters at the Seoul Metropolitan Government, in a statement. Seoul Fashion Week is not just about the gorgeous dresses or stylish outfits presented by Korean designers, but it also means big business. Organizers said the 2010 Fall/Winter Seoul Fashion Week is now focusing on the global fashion market by merging creative fashion design and a business-type fashion system. With a new focus on the business aspect of fashion, it is only fitting Seoul Fashion Week organizing committee is headed by Won Dae-yun, a former chief executive officer of Cheil Industries. In a statement, Won said the committee is striving to make Seoul Fashion Week an event that will promote global competitiveness. Global competitiveness of Korean designers and brands is as important as ever, as they seek to carve a niche in the global fashion market. To do this, organizers have adopted a business-friendly system that focuses on the buyers and the overseas market. Over 100 buyers from major agencies such as L'Eclaireur in France, Brown in London, United Arrow in Japan, as well as 30 foreign journalists and media, will attend Seoul Fashion Week. Lauren Lewis, who runs the online fashion shop Glassworks Studios (www.glassworks-studios.com), has been to Seoul Fashion Week in recent years as a buyer. ``Seoul Fashion Week is a great platform for putting Korean designers on the map, but more needs to be done to encourage the larger Korean brands to participate and support the event. This might help to attract foreign buyers who already carry or are considering carrying those brands, which in turn could attract more foreign press,'' she told The Korea Times. Seoul Fashion Week has also organized smaller presentations by designers, such as Lie Sang Bong, Moon Yong-hee, Juun.J., Sheen JeHee, Sujak, Steve J and Yoni P, and suecommabonnie exclusively for buyers. To attract more public attention, the Seoul Fashion Fair is being held to showcase clothing, shoes, bags and accessories by Korean designers. Exhibition booths from 100 participating designers in Seoul Collection and Generation Next, as well as fashion companies will be set up at the SETEC Hall 3, through April 1. Seoul Collection Ultimately at the heart of this event, of course, is fashion. Seoul Fashion Week will feature seven days of shows by 15 men's wear designers and 30 women's wear designers. Designers had to undergo strict screening before being chosen to present their collection at fashion week. They were selected after a qualitative evaluation of their domestic and overseas profits, distribution performance, marketing, brand awareness, originality and merchandise quality. ``Seoul Fashion Week is quickly becoming a place for passionate local fashion designers who dream of becoming global fashion design stars. By participating in Seoul Fashion Week, it is understood that designers, whose talent and business skills are acknowledged through this opportunity, have been able to broaden their activities and thus received a greater level of interest and participation from the industry,'' organizers said. There is a more competitive mood in this season's fashion week, since the Seoul Metropolitan Government is starting a program that will help nurture Korean brands into global brands. Top 10 designers will be selected, through screening by the buyers, press and international PR agencies during Seoul Fashion Week. The selected designers will have a chance to participate in the famous Tranoi trade show held in Paris in June (men's wear) and October (women's wear). The first two days of Seoul Fashion Week (March 26 to 27) will feature men's wear collections. Kang Dong-jun will have the honor of kicking off fashion week with his D.gnak collection. Also on the first day, there will be a series of shows by Han Sang-hyuk (MVIO), Song Hye-myung (Dominic's Way), Kim Seo-ryong, Ko Tae-yong (Beyond Closet), Choi Bum-suk (General Idea), Lee Ju-young (Resurrection), Song Zio, and Kim Seok-won (Andy & Debb Homme). On Saturday, there are six shows from Lee Jeong-jae (BON), Jung Du-young (Fahrenheit Homme), Seo Eun-gil (G.I.L. Homme), Park Sung-chul (Line or Circle), Yang Hee-min (Vandalist by Vandal) and Chang Kwang-hyo (Caruso). Eyes will be on some designers whose clothing lines have been attracting attention overseas. Lee Ju-young is making waves with her edgy Resurrection designs, which have been worn by the likes of Marilyn Manson, Lady Gaga and Black Eyed Peas. Ko Tae-yong, who created the brand Beyond Closet in 2008, has expanded overseas, with his clothes now available in New York, Canada and Russia. The much-anticipated women's wear collections begin on Sunday, with Lee Doii presenting a fresh new collection for her brand Doii Paris. Also on Sunday are shows by Kwak Hyun-joo for Gissen, Lee Suk-tae for KAAL E.SUKTAE and Kim Jae-hyun for Jardin de chouette. Monday will feature designers Hong Eun-ju (Enzuvan), Han Song (Troa), Im Seon-oc, Park Byung-kyu (how and when) and Gee Choon-hee (Miss Gee Collection). This season also marks the return of the Seoul Fashion Artists Association (SFAA) to Seoul Fashion Week. SFAA designers Ro Seung-un, Park Youn-soo, Jinteok and Bakangchi will be unveiling their fall-winter designs on March 30. The next day, it will be the turn of Rubina, Park Dong-jun, Shin Jang-kyoung, Kim Dong-soon, Sul Yun-hyoung, Oh Eun-hwan and Choi Yen-ok. Song Jain will also have a show on the same day. The last day, April 1 will feature collections by Lee Youn-jung (Duchess by Leeyounjung), Kim Chong-wol (Petillante), Choi Myoung-uk, Choi Bok-ho, Kim Young-joo and Son Jung-wan. New Generation of Designers A preview of the new breed of Korean designers at Generation Next will be held at Kring, Samseong-dong, southern Seoul, March 27-29. The 12 designers chosen to showcase their designs are all part of the Generation Next Promotion Program at the Dongdaemun Fashion Production Studio, supported by the Seoul Metropolitan Government. Designers include Choi Ji-hyung (Johnny Hates Jazz), Ju Y-A (MoMA by YA), Kim Sun-ho and Park Jung-eun (Groundwave), Hong Hye-jin (Studio-K), Lee Seung-hee (Leyii), Kim Jae-hwan (ALANI), Song Seung-ryl (8C11C), Uhm Mi-ri (Giliyate), Han Dong-woo (Irony Porn(o)), Yoon Se-na (Softcore), Joo Hyo-sun (Paul & Alice) and Kim Hong-bum (CRES.E.DIM). Special Designer Sale During fashion week, CJ Mall (www.cjmall) will be highlighting participating designers' brands on the online shop. On the last day of fashion week, a special sale will be held from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. at the SETEC Hall 3. Some 50 businesses will sell top-quality fashion items at lower prices. Three percent of the profits from this event, as well as ticket sales will be donated to the Seoul Welfare Foundation and the Seoul Youth Employment Foundation. cathy@koreatimes.co.kr

Seoul Fashion Week Ends Fall/Winter Shows

A model shows off a richly detailed dress by Lee Doii during Seoul Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010, which ended Thursday. / Courtesy of Seoul Fashion Week By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter Winter has just ended but Korean designers have already given their fashion forecast for the coming fall and winter. The Seoul Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010 ended after seven days of fashion shows at the Seoul Trade Exhibition Center (SETEC), in Daechi-dong, southern Seoul, on Thursday. Organizers touted Seoul Fashion Week as the ``largest in history,'' with around $3.4 million (3.8 billion won) in sales. There were noticeably bigger crowds at the venue, with a 20 percent jump to 74,000 in attendance this year. Videos of the fashion shows were uploaded on YouTube, while iPhone users had the chance to watch them on their handsets. Men's Fashion Designers presented men's wear collections that were inspired by military and bohemian looks, as well as vintage British and traditional European styles. Kang Dong-jun, presenting his D.gnak collection that was inspired by the military uniform, created very masculine looks with sharply tailored suits and coats. Han Sang-hyuk surprised the audience with a riveting 20-minute presentation for his collection that was inspired by mountaineers. At Kim Seo-ryong's show, the audience was treated to a collection of thick overcoats, chunky knit sweaters and staid suits that seemed straight out of the Old World. The edgy rocker style is always identified with Lee Ju-young, whose Resurrection designs have been worn by the likes of Marilyn Manson and the Black Eyed Peas, and this season is no different. With the works of American director Tim Burton as her inspiration, Lee presented coats and jackets that mixed leather, knits and denim, as well as bold green plaid suits. Andy Kim Seok-won, also known as one-half of the successful design team Andy & Debb, presented a collection of ``marine'' style, classic suits and jackets. Chang Kwang-hyo melded bohemian street fashion with traditional British design in his collection. Women's Wear The much-anticipated women's wear collections kicked off on March 28 and ended Thursday. Lee Doii, who has worked for Christian Dior and Kenzo in Paris, shows why she was selected as one of the best designers by the Korean Culture Contents Agency last year. Her show opened with a mysterious veil-covered woman wearing a lace bodysuit, followed by a collection of dresses and gowns characterized by gorgeous prints and luxurious fur details. Han Song's latest collection for Troa incorporated elements usually found in winter sports wear, resulting in fashion-forward outfits. Han, known for interpreting elements of traditional Korean culture in his collections, also collaborated mulberry paper artist Ham Seop to create prints that convey the texture of ``hanji.'' The results are unique garments with prints featuring the five colors that traditionally represent Korean culture (yellow, blue, white, red and black), and layered with silk organza on top. Gee Choon-hee once again showed her expertise in creating utterly feminine and sexy designs, which are usually worn by top Korean celebrities. There was a distinct 1940's mood throughout the show, with female models wearing both sexy dresses and masculine suits. Kwak Hyun-joo experimented with wild color combinations that echo the richness of the Amazon, to create a sporty but chic collection. Im Seon-oc brought a futuristic sportswear line, with streamlined silhouettes, new quilting techniques and cool blue, red and gray colors. Song Ja-in tried to express her unique urban sensibility in a collection of stylish, but functional, garments in green and earthy tones. There were crisp white shirts with quirky details, like a skewed collar or off-center cut-out, paired with long, lean skirts in brown and black. Minimalism and eco-fashion trends were reinterpreted by designers under the Seoul Fashion Artists Association (SFAA). Ro Seung-un kept her collection chic but with a humorous edge, introducing futuristic stripes and silhouettes. Jinteok's new collection once again showed a tribal atmosphere, with models wearing rich fur coats, leather jackets and elegantly draped clothing. Rubina's new collection was undeniably luxurious and elegant, with deep tones of grays, khakis and browns and a feminine silhouette. All in all it was a fantastic finale to what was an exciting fashion week. cathy@koreatimes.co.kr 'Korea Needs Only One Representative Fashion Show' Fashion designer Rubina By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter If the government is serious about globalizing Korean fashion, it should be ready to give more financial support to designers, according to top fashion designer Rubina. "I believe the government does not support us enough. For designers to have a collection shown overseas, you need at least 100 to 150 million won ($88,600 to $133,000). So in a year, you need at least 300 million won. To do that for 10 years, you can imagine how much money the designer would need. What the government gives us in support now is very minimal compared to what is needed," she said in an interview with The Korea Times last week. Rubina recently presented her fall/winter collection at Seoul Fashion Week, considered the biggest fashion event in Korea. The designer is considering presenting an international collection to generate more awareness of her brand, but admitted it is very difficult. "If you start doing a collection abroad, you need to do it for at least 10 years. In Korea, there is no system where a sponsor helps you with your overseas collection. You have to do it yourself and you have to know the system... But I do think doing a collection overseas is the only way to let the international market know about your brand," she said. Although a handful of Korean designers have presented international collections, they have yet to make a breakthrough compared to Japanese designers. In the 1980s, Issey Miyake, Takada Kenzo, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto made a splash in the international fashion scene. Rubina noted it was not because of lack of talent and creativity on the part of Korean designers, but because of a general lack of support. "The Japanese designers became famous throughout the world because of support from the government and corporations. I wish that could be the case here. I hope Korean designers will eventually have the same kind of support," she said. As well as financial support, Rubina hopes the government will schedule Seoul Fashion Week a few weeks earlier to attract more international buyers. "Aside from the fashion collections, there should be an exhibition much bigger than the one right now. It should also include materials, fabrics, textiles and accessories where buyers can look around and do some actual buying, so we can have visible results," she said. Rubina is also one of the founding members and the previous chairman of the Seoul Fashion Artists Association (SFAA). The SFAA, a select group of 12 designers established 20 years ago, started Seoul Collection which was the precursor to Seoul Fashion Week. Unlike before when there were not many fashion events in Korea, there are now several - Seoul Fashion Week, Pret-a-Porter Busan and the Daegu Fashion Fair. Rubina noted there should only be one representative fashion event in Korea. "If Seoul is concentrating on fashion, then Busan should concentrate on films and Daegu with textiles. There are so many fashion events and a lot of money being invested in those cities now, but no clear results. It just becomes festivities. I think there should be just one single fashion week where the best of the best gather," she said. Looking at Rubina, it's not hard to see that she was once a fashion model, with her statuesque figure and fine bone structure. "I was a fashion model in Korea for 13 years. After years of modeling, I discovered I had a talent for designing clothing. Fashion models have an age limit - if you reach a certain age, you can't model anymore. But designing, if you can do it, you can do it as long as you want if you're healthy. So when I found out I had this talent, I decided to become a designer," she said. A designer for 30 years, Rubina has carefully cultivated her brand of utterly feminine, luxury clothing for women. "I design for very urban, cosmopolitan woman, someone very modern and feminine," she said. This was very much evident in her recently unveiled fall/winter collection, which revolved around the theme "transtriangle." The runway was filled with beautifully cut coats, dresses and pants in gray, black, brown with a splash of pinkish red. Backed by her decades of experience in the fashion industry, Rubina offered some advice for young designers. "Designing is a very difficult job. The more effort you put in, the better results you gain... There's always something new, so I always experiment and brainstorm every day of the year. Designing is not just drawing. You also need a sense of art, knowledge about the world economy, a broad perspective and a lot of experience. But most of all, always do the best you can do," she said.

Little Manila stories

Seoul’s 'Little Manila' Faces Closure

By Kwon Mee-yoo, Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporters Jongno District Office in Seoul has told the Filipino community to stop holding a market in Hyehwa-dong, citing complaints from passers-by and residents. The marketplace, dubbed "Little Manila," first emerged in 1997, and takes place every Sunday for Filipinos after attending a mass at the Hyehwa Catholic Church. About 1,200 to 2,000 Filipinos gather at the marketplace, which some consider as a fine example of Korea's racial harmony. There are about 46,000 Filipinos in Korea, forming the fifth largest ethnic group, following Chinese, Americans, Vietnamese and Japanese. Father Alvin Parantar, chaplain of the Hyehwa-dong Filipino Catholic Community, who acts as a representative for the ethnic community, confirmed the district office's request, adding that it was like the district kicking them out for its own convenience without providing an alternative site for their gathering. "The reasons they gave up us was one, they received complaints from neighbors and pedestrians in the area; two, there were concerns about cleanliness and order; three, they want to redevelop the sidewalk and include a waterfall wall in the area; and four, they want to transfer the market to a new multicultural market," the priest told The Korea Times over the phone. "It's a Philippine way of life. We go to church, then go to the market to buy provisions and meet friends. It's an expression of Philippine culture. The national government has a policy about supporting multiculturalism in Korea, but there seems to be a contradiction with the district office's plans. The church and the market should go together and not be separated," he said. Outside the church, there are usually 16 vendors selling Philippine products and cooked food. Many Filipinos living not just in Seoul, but also from the provinces, flock to the market to buy products from their home country Parantar noted the problems raised by the district office can be addressed by the vendors at the market. "The problems that they raised can be resolved by talking to the vendors. They are willing to cooperate. If they are concerned about the cleanliness and orderliness in the area, they can address the problems. If they want to redevelop the area again, they can integrate the Philippine market according to their plans," Parantar said. The district office said they have received civil petitions from the neighborhood and they have to take some measures against the Philippine market. "There were many complaints from the pedestrians and residents. There also is a possibility of accidents as Filipinos flock out of the church after mass into car lanes," said Lee Jong-ju of the district's construction management division. "Some vendors occupy more than eight meters on the street and it causes an inconvenience to pedestrians." The district also connected the move to the eviction of other street vendors in Jongno, who were "moved" to "specialized areas" away from the street. "All street stalls have vanished from Jongno and some people think the same rule should be applied to the Philippine market," he said. "We talked about the situation with the representatives of the Philippine community three times and gave them some alternatives," Lee said. The district suggested moving to the grounds of Dongsung High School, but the school refused to participate. Another idea was shifting it to an area in front of the Catholic University of Korea campus, however, it has failed to respond to the suggestion. "For the best, we want them to move into the multicultural street which is going to open in Nakwon-dong in March. However, they rebuffed the idea since it is isolated from their church and community," Lee said. He added that the district will try not to use physical force. "The best way would be to transfer them to a designated area, but otherwise we are going to crack down on the market from March," he said. meeyoo@koreatimes.co.kr cathy@koreatimes.co.kr

Envoy Seeks to Avert Closure of 'Little Manila' Philippine Ambassador Luis Cruz By Kwon Mee-yoo, Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporters The Philippine Embassy in Seoul is hoping to avert the closure of the "Little Manila" market that takes place every Sunday in Hyehwa-dong in central Seoul. Residents and storeowners have complained of traffic, disorderliness and garbage problems in the market area, according to the Jongno District Office, leading to its decision to close the market. Philippine Ambassador to Korea Luis Cruz believes these issues should first be worked out through discussions between the vendors and the residents around Hyehwa, not by immediate closure. "Our point is both ends should meet. ... There can be discussions with vendors for alternative solutions and to address the issues the Jongno residents raised. Such issues like traffic and the garbage can be addressed. The vendors can make efforts to clean the area and create some order," he told The Korea Times in a phone interview. For instance, Cruz suggested that vendors be provided with store carts that can make the market look cleaner and more organized. Currently, vendors at "Little Manila" usually place their products in boxes or on the sidewalks, causing congestion for pedestrians. Cruz said embassy officials will also meet with Jongno District officials to clarify the matter and discuss alternatives solutions to the problems raised by the residents. He also said the Filipino community leaders should talk to the vendors to work out a system to make the market more orderly. There are currently 16 vendors, selling Philippine delicacies, canned goods, noodles and magazines, clustered in the area leading to the Hyehwa Catholic Church. Unlike the other vendors evicted from Jongno's streets, the Philippine market is only open for around six hours from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. once a week on Sundays. It first emerged in 1997, as many Filipinos gathered in the area to attend mass at Hyehwa Catholic Church on Sundays. It has since become an unofficial gathering place for the Filipino community in Seoul and the nearby provinces. Cruz emphasized that the market cannot be separated from the church, since it is a way of life for many Filipinos. "It's a place where Filipinos gather to meet other Filipinos. It's like social networking. It's also about Philippine culture. If people go to the Philippines, they'll see that outside the churches, there are markets and a lively fiesta atmosphere," Cruz added. The ambassador also noted the fact that Korean tourism Web sites and guidebooks have included the Philippine market as a tourist attraction and as an example of Korea's growing multiculturalism. "The government is pursuing programs for multiculturalism. I think this market is the Filipino community's contribution to multiculturalism in Seoul. The patrons at the market are not just Filipinos but also foreigners, Asians, Caucasians and other nationalities who go there to experience Philippine culture," Cruz said. meeyoo@koreatimes.co.kr cathy@koreatimes.co.kr Filipinos Collect Signatures to Save 'Little Manila' By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter While most of Seoul was practically deserted Sunday because of the Lunar New Year holiday, the Hyehwa-dong Rotary in Jongno, Seoul, was bustling with activity as hundreds of Filipinos shopped for food and other Philippine products at the street market. However, the Jongno District Office's plan to close the market, also known as "Little Manila," by March, has caused concern in the Filipino community. "We don't understand why they want to close the market and move it. It's only every Sunday, and it's only for a few hours. I don't think there are a lot of problems like they've been saying. If there are any problems, we can always try to fix it first. But they shouldn't just close the market," said John Paul, a Filipino vendor at the market since 2005. Filipino community leaders have even launched a signature campaign to save the "Little Manila" market, which has been described as a "home away from home" for the 46,000 Filipinos living in Korea. Father Alvin Parantar, chaplain of the Hyehwa-dong Filipino Catholic Community, said they have written a petition urging Seoul City Mayor Oh Se-hoon to retain and improve the market. "We are not in favor of the relocation of the Filipino market. We are appealing that the present Filipino market should be retained with policies regarding order, cleanliness, pedestrians and traffic, and that the development plan of the area should integrate the promotion of multiculturalism," the petition stated. The petition also highlighted the Filipino market's contribution to multiculturalism in Korea. While the majority of market-goers are Filipinos, there are also a number of Koreans and foreigners who are visiting the market to sample Philippine food such as barbecued meat, stir-fried noodles, fried banana and rice cakes. "Even Koreans, who have been to the Philippines, come here to buy pancit (stir-fried noodles) or balut (duck egg)," said another Filipino vendor, who did not want to be identified. Several vendors interviewed by The Korea Times expressed their willingness to cooperate and make improvements, in order to prevent the market's closure or transfer. The Jongno District Office had cited complaints from residents and storeowners regarding the cleanliness, orderliness and traffic in the area, as reasons why the market should be closed. "We're aware that there are some complaints because there are really a lot of people in the street, especially when the mass ends around 3 p.m. But it's only a once a week market, and we're more than willing to cooperate with any changes they want us to make," said Wilbert, a Filipino vendor who lives in Bucheon. Many Filipino workers from different parts of Korea travel to Seoul on Sundays just to go to church and shop at the market. The Filipino EPS Workers Association (FEWA) is one of the organizations trying to gather signatures for the petition to save the market. FEWA President Marcy Serdena said the market has become an important part of Filipinos' way of life in Korea. "We go here every Sunday, even if it is far, just to go to church, buy food and meet other Filipinos. ... I think they should first try to make sure the market is orderly and impose discipline among the vendors. This can be resolved through discussions, and not immediate closure," Serdena said. cathy@koreatimes.co.kr ' 'Little Manila' to Stay On By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter "Little Manila," the market for the Filipino community held every Sunday, is being allowed to stay at Hyehwa-dong, at least for now. Jongno District Office in Seoul has informed the Philippine Embassy it will not push through with its original plan to relocate the market from its location outside the Hyehwa-dong Catholic Church to the new multicultural market in Nakwon-dong this month. "They will not push through with the relocation plan this March, pending on the improvements (in the market), such as the new size and designs of the market stalls that were being discussed together with the vendors," Father Alvin Parantar, chaplain of the Hyehwa-dong Filipino Catholic Community and representative for the ethnic community, told The Korea Times. The Jongno District Office confirmed the plan under the spirit of promoting co-existence with the Filipino community. "It is best if they move to another place as the current market is open illegally," Lee Jong-ju of the district said. "However, we will not force them to move out as they are trying to improve the market in a clean and orderly way. For instance, they stopped setting up stalls behind taxi stands." Parantar said the community greatly appreciates Jongno District Office's consideration, even though there is no final decision on the matter. Jongno officials have warned that they will be closely monitoring developments at the Philippine market, before deciding on the fate of the market. "When these visible developments of the market have been done, the Jongno office will discuss the issue with Seoul City office. However, they warned that if the vendors fail to follow the proposed changes, Jongno District office will raise the issue of relocation once again," Parantar said. The Korea Times reported last Feb. 11 that the office planned to relocate the market by March, citing complaints about traffic congestion, garbage and disorderliness in the area from passers-by and residents. However, the Filipino community objected to the plan and organized signature campaigns to save the market, which was described as an expression of Philippine way of life. In response to the problems cited by Jongno District Office, the vendors submitted proposals to improve the market. Among others, they proposed reducing the size of the "selling" areas to ease the pedestrian traffic, and introducing actual stalls with Philippine cultural designs. Parantar said the implementation of these proposals will be further discussed among the 16 vendors who sell Philippine products at the Sunday market. "The ball is on our court now. This is not easy because there is internal conflict among the vendors, which is understandable because of competition. We still need to fully convince them to stick to the changes in the market's set up. We don't know where the budget will come from either," he said. Nonetheless, Parantar is glad the Jongno officials have recognized the importance of the Philippine market not just to the Filipino community, but for Seoul. "The Hyehwa-dong community and the Philippine embassy are firming up details for the implementation of the proposals. We hope to gather more cooperation and support from everyone who wanted to see 'Little Manila' thriving and improving into something that we can all be proud of," Parantar said. The Philippine marketplace, called "Little Manila," first emerged in 1997 and takes place every Sunday for Filipinos who attend mass at the Hyehwa Catholic Church. About 1,200 to 2,000 Filipinos visit the marketplace, which some consider as a fine example of Korea's racial harmony. There are about 46,000 Filipinos in Korea, forming the fifth largest ethnic group, following Chinese, Americans, Vietnamese and Japanese. cathy@koreatimes.co.kr

Bob Dylan Rocked Seoul

Bob Dylan Gives Memorable Concert

Legendary singer-songwriter Bob Dylan By Cathy Rose A. Garcia, Kim Young-jin Staff Reporters Legendary singer-songwriter Bob Dylan played his first concert in Korea before a packed crowd at Olympic Gymnasium in southern Seoul, Wednesday evening. Wearing a black suit and his trademark hat, Dylan regaled 6,000 fans to more than two hours of non-stop music. His 18-song set list was surprisingly heavy with well-known hits such as ``Highway 61,'' ``Blowin' in the Wind'' and ``Like a Rolling Stone.'' The 68-year-old musician, fresh off a 14-date tour in Japan, showed no signs of fatigue or age. He opened the concert behind the keyboard, launching with his band into the raucous 12-bar blues of ``Rainy Day Women #12 & 35,'' followed by an up-tempo version of ``Lay, Lady, Lay.'' Dylan picked up a guitar for ``I'll Be Your Baby Tonight,'' trading licks with lead guitarist Charlie Sexton. It was the only time he played guitar; he played the harmonica and keyboard throughout the night. It was followed by ``Stuck Inside Of Mobile With The Memphis Blues Again,'' and a rockabilly version of ``The Levee's Gonna Break,'' which featured a playfully syncopated keyboard solo from Dylan. He mellowed the mood with a slow-dance rendition of ``Just Like a Woman,'' sounding as wistful and reflective as ever. He leaned over the edge of the stage mid-song to play a harmonica solo especially for the front row. The next few songs, ``Honest With Me,'' ``Sugar Baby'' and ``High Water (For Charley Patton),'' were all off his 2001 album, ``Love and Theft.'' Dylan and his band gave a fresh take on the classic ``Desolation Row,'' enthralling the crowd throughout the nearly 10-minute song. He stayed fairly faithful to the original ``Highway 61 Revisited,'' but ``Shelter From the Storm'' departed from the original, taking on a loose, almost improvisational feel. Dylan injected a dose of swing into ``Thunder On The Mountain,'' getting many in the crowd on their feet and dancing. Midway through the song, the band broke into an extended jam session, showing off their considerable chops by bringing their sound down to a simmer and breaking back into a bluesy romp. ``Ballad Of A Thin Man'' was the final song, with Dylan sounding as caustic as ever as he sneered the lyrics over jolts of distorted guitar. As the band exited, fans began clamoring for an encore. After a few minutes, Dylan and the band re-emerged. With the opening chords of ``Like a Rolling Stone,'' many fans rushed towards the front to dance and get a closer glimpse of the iconic figure. Dylan also performed ``Jolene'' and ``All Along The Watchtower'' ― complete with Hendrix-style riffs ― to the delight of the fans. Dylan and his band played almost non-stop throughout the more than two-hour concert. He did not talk much, but the fans didn't seem to mind. It was only after the first encore when he spoke to the audience. ``Thanks fans,'' he said, before introducing his band. His band featured Sexton on lead guitar, Tony Garnier on bass, George Recile on drums, Stu Kimball on rhythm guitar and Donnie Herron on banjo, violin, electric mandolin, pedal steel and lap steel guitar. The concert ended with a country version of ``Blowin' in the Wind," which saw Dylan shouting the lyrics out with verve, spurring on his band and elating the crowd. After the song, Dylan and his band took a bow before the clearly appreciative audience. It may have taken nearly 50 years for the music icon to come to Korea, but Dylan certainly made it worth the wait. cathy@koreatimes.co.kr