 A view of the steep drop as the hikers descend from Seo-bong in Deogyu-san national park, located between North Jeolla and North Gyeongsang provinces. / Photo courtesy of Andrew Douch and Roger Shepherd | By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter
New Zealander Roger Shepherd had already walked 350 kilometers of the Baekdu-daegan mountain ridge in June last year, before he realized he should be documenting his trek through the ``spine" of the Korean peninsula.
The Baekdu-daegan is the mountain range that runs through the Korean Peninsula (both North and South Korea), passing through every province except for Gyeonggi, South Chungcheong and Jeju Island.
Shepherd was so entranced by the range's beauty and the friendliness of the Korean people he had met during his trek, that he felt more foreigners should know about this hiking trail. Thus, the idea to traverse the 670-kilometer Baekdu-daegan mountain ridge in South Korea was born.
Baekdu-daegan means ``white-head great-ridge.'' It starts at Mount Baekdusan in North Korea, and ends at Mount Jirisan in South Korea, running nearly 1,625 kilometers from end to end. But the two Kiwis are doing the South first.
Shepherd, a policeman from Wellington, vowed to return to Korea to walk the entire Baekdu-daegan trail, and to write an English hiking guide so that other foreigners can explore the area.
He met fellow New Zealander, Andrew Douch, who has been living in Korea for seven years and also interested in hiking through the Baekdu-daegan.
As they did their research, Shepherd stumbled on a Web site dedicated to Korea's native mountain spirit, which was run by Kyung Hee University professor for tourism David Mason. They couldn't have found a better person to ask for help, since Mason has spent the last 25 years doing research on Korea's sacred mountains, one of which is Baekdu-daegan.
 On his Web site (www.san-shin.net), Mason described the Baekdu-daegan as the ``theoretical 670 km-long geomantic earth-energy main stream.''
The Baekdu-daegan ridge holds most of the highest peaks of Korea. More importantly, it has spiritual significance, since it is believed to be the life-energy source of Korea. It is ``important in traditional Korean thought, a key aspect of 'pungsujiri' (geomancy) philosophy and practices.'' Baekdu-daegan has roughly half of Korea's most sacred mountains, and the source of all of Korea's major rivers is found here.
 ``The Baekdu-daegan is believed by traditionalists of all sorts (Buddhists, Confucianists, Shamanists, Nationalists, Taoists and even many Christians) to continuously feed essential life-energy throughout the land of Korea, and thus into all its agricultural products and spring-waters, and thus into its people. Its unimpeded clear flow is considered necessary for the birth and raising of heroic and virtuous citizens, and thus for the health, strength and prosperity of the Korean nation,'' Mason said.
Journey Begins
The 2007 Baekdu-daegan Expedition Team is on a once-in-a-lifetime journey to go where no other foreigners (at least to their knowledge) have gone before _ to trek the entire South Korean portion of the Baekdu-daegan. Both Douch and Shepherd have taken time off work to do the hike, while Mason helps them by researching the historical and cultural background of the area.
The team started its trek from Jungsan-ri, Jirisan National Park on Sept. 1, and traveled northward with the ``sun behind their back'' as Shepherd put it.
When Douch and Shepherd met with reporters at the Buseoksa Temple over the weekend, they had already covered a significant portion. The trek was originally supposed to take 70 days, but they have progressed much more quickly. They are now expected to complete the expedition on Nov. 7 at Jinbu-ryeong in Seoraksan National Park.
``Walking has become our job. There's not much of that psychological barrier that we had at first. We were struggling with our fitness, we were like `Oh my God, there's four more kilometers left?' Now, we're like, `Oh, 4 kilometers more. Great!','' Shepherd said, as he and Douch met reporters at the Buseoksa Temple, near Punggi town in North Chungcheong Province.
Douch said they had originally estimated walking an average of 10 kilometers a day to be able to finish the trek in 70 days, but they would sometimes walk as much as 25 kilometers a day.
At the start, they brought heavy packs that contained three day's worth of food and supplies. But they soon decided to just look for minbaks (rural home-stay) after every day's hike, since there are many villages and towns near the Baekdu-daegan trail. It has turned out to be an interesting way to experience rural life in Korea's countryside.
``I'm now a big fan of rural Korea. There is a laid-back atmosphere in the small towns. People are friendly and curious. They always wear genuine smiles and feed us fruits. We are very grateful for that,'' Douch said.
Like most hikers, they also leave their ribbons on the trail. Hiking through the Baekdu-daegan is gaining popularity among Koreans, who leave their ribbons to indicate their success in conquering the trail.
Shepherd and Douch have not experienced any major problems during the trip, save for losing weight, a bad bout of gastroenteritis and some friendly arguments over Scrabble games at night.
Douch recalled how an old man asked to check their backpacks because he thought they were stealing the expensive pine mushrooms that grow in the mountains. Another time, they were walking down the hill and found themselves in the middle of a Korean couple's outdoor party.
When asked if they have experienced the spiritual power the ridge holds, Shepherd said he certainly feels a lot stronger than when they started the trek.
``You can't ignore that idea. It is certainly in the back of our minds. The energy from the Baekdu-daegan is mostly positive and the water from the streams is the provider of life. A lot of people admire and worship the mountains. So somehow it becomes ingrained in you,'' he said.
Spectacular Scenery
The 30-year-old Douch and 41-year-old Shepherd can't help but gush about the spectacular autumn scenery in Korea's mountains. While New Zealand has its own breathtaking natural scenery, they admit Korea has its own unique charm.
``I think the Korean scenery is probably on a par with any other part of the world. Some people would say New Zealand is such a beautiful country, but every country would have something that is truly remarkable about their landscape. ... We get to the top of these ridges, and we look out on a clear day and we will see lines of mountains all in contrasting lights. It's amazing,'' Shepherd said.
Attempting to walk over 600 kilometers in the mountains might seem intimidating, but the two hikers said anyone with reasonable fitness could complete the Baekdu-daegan trail. Shepherd noted Korean mountains are very accessible for hikers, although basic knowledge of Korean is needed to read the signs. He suggests people do the trek during early autumn (September to October) or spring (April to May) to be able to experience cool, moderate weather and see the beautiful scenery.
The Baekdu-daegan is currently the focus of the Korean government's efforts for preservation. In 2003, the government implemented a law mandating the preservation of ``the backbone of the Korean peninsula and the treasure house of its ecosystem.'' Last year, the area was designated a national nature preservation park.
While these efforts are lauded, Douch and Shepherd suggest there could be more to help foreign hikers, such as English signs and more facilities for hikers.
As they are on the brink of successfully walking the South Korean trail of the Baekdu-daegan, Douch and Shepherd still dream of trekking the North Korean portion.
The Baekdu-daegan expedition team is planning on coming up with an English guidebook to help future hikers. There are also plans for a coffee table book featuring the photos of the trail taken by Douch and Shepherd, along with cultural information written by Mason.
With this project, they hope that one day, the Baekdu-daegan can become an internationally known long distance trail like the Appalachian Trail, Sierra Crest Trail, Inca Trail and the Great Wall of China.
You can track the progress of the 2007 Baekdu-daegan Expedition Team on their blog www.baekdudaegan.blogspot.com. | |